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The all-new Breitling Navitimer B02 Cosmonaute and B09 41mm chronographs join the core collection.

 

The glorious history of the Space Race and a heritage rooted in motorsport live on in these "modern-retro" iterations of an iconic aviation timepiece.

Long celebrated as the quintessential pilot’s chronograph, the Breitling Navitimer is best known for its signature slide-rule bezel. First introduced in 1952, the watch originally featured a manual-wound Valjoux 72 movement. From 1969 onward, the Navitimer transitioned primarily to self-winding chronograph movements—starting with the legendary Chrono-Matic 11, and eventually evolving to incorporate Breitling’s in-house B01 caliber in 2009.

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Today, Breitling unveils two new Navitimer models that return to a vintage-inspired aesthetic and feature classic manual-wound movements—a first for the brand’s current core collection. The Breitling Navitimer B09 pays homage to a 1960s classic and is powered by the manual-wound B09 caliber. The Navitimer B02 Cosmonaute serves as a modern reinterpretation of the legendary 24-hour chronograph—a timepiece born from a collaboration between Breitling and astronaut Scott Carpenter, who wore a Navitimer into space in May 1962.

The design of the new B09 model draws its primary inspiration from the 1964 Ref. MK5 806—often referred to as the "Twin-Jet Navitimer"—which was famously worn by racing drivers (and former airline pilots) Jim Clark and Graham Hill. They highly valued the Navitimer’s functional design, where the chronograph function and the rotating circular slide rule could be used in tandem to calculate speed, distance, and fuel consumption. The model was powered by the classic manually-wound Venus 178 movement—a caliber that ceased production in the 1960s but had previously been widely used in early generations of the Navitimer, having replaced the Valjoux movement found in the original versions.

The case of the new model closely mirrors that of the 1960s classic: crafted from stainless steel, it measures 41 mm in diameter and 13 mm in thickness, with a lug-to-lug distance of 47.09 mm. Beneath a domed, anti-reflective sapphire crystal lies the iconic Navitimer "reverse-panda" dial, featuring a 30-minute totalizer at 3 o'clock, a 12-hour totalizer at 6 o'clock, and a small seconds sub-dial at 9 o'clock—all encircled by the concentric scales used for calculations. The watch is available in black or blue, both accented by contrasting white sub-dials and white scales. Unlike its self-winding counterparts in the collection, this new model omits the date window at 4:30, allowing for a slimmer movement and, consequently, a thinner, more lightweight case.

As for the movement itself, Breitling’s Caliber B09—a variant of the B01 that removes the automatic-winding mechanism while retaining the column-wheel, vertical-clutch-operated 1/4-second chronograph function—makes its debut within the core Navitimer collection. (Previously, this movement was reserved exclusively for special-edition timepieces, such as the recently released Miles Davis commemorative edition.) Breitling has thoughtfully placed this movement—which boasts a 70-hour power reserve, an operating frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, and COSC-certified chronometric precision—beneath a transparent sapphire crystal case back. This allows the wearer to admire the exquisite watchmaking craftsmanship, unobstructed by the large oscillating weight typically found in self-winding movements.

The history of the Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute traces back to the Space Race of the 1960s—specifically, the 1962 Mercury-Atlas 7 orbital mission. Scott Carpenter wore his personal Navitimer during the flight, making it the first Swiss watch to travel into space. Following the mission, Carpenter collaborated with Breitling to develop a classic pilot’s watch featuring a 24-hour dial (rather than the standard 12-hour format), designed to help astronauts keep track of time on Earth while in space. While the "Cosmonaute" has historically been a niche offering within the Navitimer collection—often appearing only as a limited edition—this latest iteration finally brings this unconventional design into the core product lineup. Its distinctive 24-hour dial features a black main dial with white sub-dials, mirroring the layout of the B09; however, there is one notable exception: to maintain the dial’s intricate symmetry, a date window—color-matched to the main dial—has been integrated into the sub-dial at the 6 o’clock position.

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The Cosmonaute is powered by the Breitling Manufacture Caliber B02. It retains all the hallmarks of the B01—including an impressive power reserve, chronometer-certified precision, and a 1/4-second chronograph function equipped with a column wheel and vertical clutch—but is designed as a manual-winding movement, staying true to the legacy of the Venus 178 caliber found in the original Cosmonaute. The B02 movement was developed by the brand specifically for this timepiece and has been modified so that the hour hand completes one full rotation of the dial—rather than two—thereby displaying time in a 24-hour format. Like the B09 movement found in the aforementioned model, this movement is visible through a sapphire crystal caseback.

The vintage aesthetic of these two new models is further underscored by the inclusion of a gold twin-jet aircraft logo on the dial. First introduced in 1965 for the civilian version of the watch, this emblem replaced the AOPA (Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association) logo that appeared on early 1950s Navitimer models—timepieces originally sold exclusively to members of that association. Both watches feature the signature Navitimer pump-style pushers and are water-resistant to 30 meters. The Navitimer B09 comes with a hand-stitched, gradient-colored leather strap—brown for the black-and-white dial version, and dark blue for the blue-and-white dial version—while the Cosmonaute features a black "reverse-panda" dial paired with a brown leather strap. Additionally, both models are available with an exquisitely crafted seven-row stainless steel bracelet.

 

 

 

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